In Byron's Footsteps - Gjirokastra, Albania
19th June - 3rd July 2010
28th August - 11th September 2010
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This is cutting edge ancient history! Albania is a country of legends and rich history reflected in its almost untouched archaeological heritage. We've been working since 2002 in the now world famous Butrint National Park, and have seen the development of the new Albanian National Trust (ANT). With ANT, we are now moving inland to one of Europe's least visited areas to start in on some fascinating archaeological recording in the historic town of Gjirokastra and create a new long-distance trail following Byron’s footsteps and the route of his famous expedition.
Byron's journey will become our journey as we venture into long-since unvisited villages and countryside attempting to retrace and map the route, opening up the area for future travellers.
With accommodation in family homes in Gjirokastra and a Bektashi monastery while on the trail, we'll truly immerse ourselves in this long forgotten world.
Who we're working with
The Albanian National Trust (ANT) is promoting the preservation of Cultural Heritage in Albania. ANT has begun by identifying and initiating restoration projects around the Butrint National Park and Drinos Valley combining this with sustainable economical development in the communities around these areas. The stated objectives and functions of the organisation are: to protect the cultural heritage of Albania; to educate young people in the field of cultural heritage management; to publish books on the field of cultural heritage.
ANT's recent great success has been in creating and now running the Underwater Archaeology Project consider by Archaeology Magazine as one of the Top Ten Projects in the World.
The trust is keen to promote volunteering in Albania as a means of preserving the country's rich archaeological and natural heritage. This project is designed as an example and to test ways in which this can work.
Where we're working
The first part of our project will be based in Gjirokastra, a ‘UNESCO World Heritage’ centre one of Albania's most beautiful and original towns and otherwise known as the 'town of the thousand steps' or the 'stone town'. Gjirokastra is of great interest for its native Albanian architecture, with houses huddled one above the other around the dramatic Ottoman fortress, the second biggest in the Balkans. In the centre of the town, is the Bazaar Mosque. In the Old Bazaar quarter there are many shops situated in the narrow streets, and in the Mecite quarter there are old Turkish Baths dating from 17th century.
As we set off into the hinterlands, our base will be at the Tekke of Melan, a Bektashi Monastery at a former fortified site dating back to the 4th century, but now nearly lost beyond the remote villages of the region. The Gjirokastra valley area in the South of Albania is almost untouched by tourism or ‘development’.
What we'll be doing
We’re working on two distinct projects: the recording of ancient carved stone inscriptions in Gjirokastra, and the first stages in developing a new long-distance trail following the ‘mad, bad and dangerous’ Lord Byron’s journey through southern Albania in 1809, inspiration for the work that made him famous, Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.
Gjirokastra still contains hundreds of undocumented historical artefacts, including a number of stone-carved persian, ottoman and arabic inscriptions set into the walls of its buildings. We’ll be exploring the town, locating these, recording locations and creating a photographic record. This work will enable ANT to begin work on translation of these mysterious texts.
Byron’s trail is an ambitious plan by ANT to create a long-distance walking route attracting visitors to the area.Byron's journey will become our journey as we venture into long since unvisited villages and countryside. We’ll be taking the first steps along the route as we identify the original droving trails travelled, assess whether they are still usable, find alternatives where possible and identify and record significant historical sites and potential accommodation along the route. The work will be varied and we’ll be seeing parts of Albania rarely seen by outsiders since, well, 1809 possibly!
These projects are supported by the Gjirokastra town authorities and the local villages. We’ll be taking part in real groundbreaking work in a country of surprises - some flexibility will be required along with a good level of fitness.
Benefits of our work
For a country with such a rich historical heritage, there is limited capacity for any kind of work to record and preserve the material that give it its character. Our work represents early interventions by the Albanian National Trust to tackle these problems and importantly, the presence of 'outsiders' helps to show the way for local action.
Opening up sustainable tourism that focuses on an appreciation for and protection of historical sites and monuments ensures that this archaeological heritage is firmly associated with the sustainable economic development of what is currently a desperately poor region.
Where we'll be staying
In Gjirokastra we'll be living with the locals - staying in pairs with families in the original Ottoman houses of the old-town. An opportunity to mix, mingle and experience real life in this mediaeval relic. These homestays have been organised by ANT - accommodation will be comfortable, but can be basic, reflecting the local way of life.
During the Byron Trail survey we'll stay in the monastery, the Tekke of Melan itself - an amazing experience but exceedingly basic. Accommodation will be on carpet covered mattresses in a shared room with very basic facilities.
On arrival, the first night will be spent in a hotel in Albania's capital Tirana to allow for the unusual direct flight times.
What else is there
We'll see so much just going to and fro between the places we'll be working and while surveying the trail, but we'll also take some time to visit places of interest on the way - none of them in the guidebook!
Gjirokastra itself is oozing mediaeval charm and we'll get to know every corner of it - making sure to visit its most famous sites including the Ottoman fortress.
NIghtlife will depend on where we are and what we make of it. The town has cafes and bars, and the monastery has peace and tranquility. A bit of each will probably be perfect!
